An Interview with JJ on Tailoring for the Man and Climate of Singapore

Singapore has no dress seasons, no layering weather, and no patience for a suit that suffocates by noon. Nevertheless, tailoring here is having a secret renaissance. At the centre of it is JJ, founder of Gentlemen’s Pursuit, who’s built a label around a simple but radical idea: great tailoring should work for where you actually live.

This is our conversation with him.

Let’s start from the beginning, JJ. Can you tell us about your journey into bespoke tailoring and what inspired you to start your own label?

It actually started way before the suits. I was doing corporate shirt printing and uniform making, so fabrics, construction, the whole world of it—that’s been in my life for a while. But it was really during COVID that things shifted. Suddenly I had time to connect with suppliers I’d never have found otherwise, all these incredible fabric mills and craftsmen online. That opened my eyes to what was possible.

And somewhere in all of that, I thought, Singapore needs a tailoring voice that actually understands how we live here. Our climate, our lifestyle, the way we dress. I also wanted to give Singaporeans a chance to explore craftsmanship they could actually wear regularly, not just pull out of the wardrobe once a year. A lot of what I do pushes a little off the traditional, more conventional designs. Which is really quite fun.

What does “bespoke” mean to you, and how does that shape the philosophy of your brand?

Bespoke to me means building something entirely from scratch around a person. Their body, yes, but also their lifestyle, their personality, the problems they need solved. Heat, for instance. Comfort. The way they carry themselves when they’re confident versus when they’re not. It’s as much about understanding the wearer as it is about the stitching. You have to ask the right questions first. A suit should do something for you. Every single one.

Describe the modern Singaporean gentleman you design for.

Well, he’s busy for sure. He’s moving from a boardroom to a hawker centre to a dinner event all in the same day, sometimes in the same outfit. He appreciates quality but he’s not interested in suffering for it. He wants to look sharp without feeling like he’s being punished by his own clothes.

And to be honest? A big part of my clientele is grooms. Men coming in for their wedding suits. That’s such an important day, and the last thing I want is for someone to be tugging at his collar or sweating through his jacket during the vows. I want him to feel comfortable, confident and completely himself.

How would you describe the sartorial culture in Singapore today? Are we seeing a shift in how men dress or perceive tailoring?

Absolutely shifting. Men here are much more aware now—of fit, quality, what clothes can do for them. Off-the-rack used to be fine. Now people want to be part of the process. They want to be their own designer, in a sense.

And it’s become less formal but more purposeful. Even the way men dress casually now, you can see it’s smarter and more considered. A lot of that comes from exposure to global fashion, especially from the shows people are watching. But what’s interesting is how it’s being adapted locally. It’s not just copying what’s happening in Milan or London. It’s being filtered through a very Singaporean lens.

Have you noticed any emerging style trends among Singaporean men that you’re excited about?

Colour. People are getting braver with colour, which I love. For a long time it was navy, grey, black—safe, safe, safe. Now clients are coming in asking for dusty greens, warm taupes, even the occasional rust. It’s exciting.

And silhouettes are relaxing. Unstructured jackets, wider trousers. There’s a softness to menswear right now that actually suits our climate perfectly. Which, perhaps not coincidentally, is exactly what I’ve been doing anyway. So, good timing.

How important is versatility in a bespoke suit for men living in Singapore, given the variety of occasions from business to social events?

It’s everything, really. Wardrobes here aren’t enormous. You’re not going to have fifteen suits sitting in rotation. So each piece has to work hard. A jacket needs to go to a wedding on Saturday and a client meeting on Monday. Ideally with different bottoms, different shirts. I design with that in mind from the start. Can this jacket pair with chinos? Can these trousers work with a polo? If the answer’s no, we need to rethink. Climate plays into it too. Like, if it’s not comfortable in this heat, it’s not going to get worn. And a suit that doesn’t get worn is just expensive wardrobe decoration.

Singapore’s climate is consistently hot and humid year-round. How has this shaped the way you think about tailoring as a craft?

It’s shaped everything. I always design from the fabric outward. The cloth comes first always. You can have the most beautiful cut in the world, but if the fabric is suffocating, it’s over.

The traditional tailoring conventions, a lot of them were designed for temperate climates. Heavy canvassing, thick interlinings, full linings… None of that makes sense here. So I’ve had to reinterpret. There’s lighter construction, softer shoulders, more ventilation built into the garment. It’s a different craft, in some ways, but I think it’s a more honest one, for where we are.

In practical terms, how do you adapt your tailoring techniques to account for heat, humidity, and perspiration?

Lining is the first thing. We lean heavily on Cupro, Bemberg, breathable linings that actually wick moisture rather than trap it. Polyester is pretty much off the table for us. It just doesn’t belong in this climate.

Then construction—minimal padding at the shoulders, soft sleeveheads. Every bit of weight you remove is a bit of heat you reduce. And there are internal finishing details, certain seam placements, that help with airflow in ways most people would never notice.

What are some key materials or fabric blends that work best in tropical conditions, and why?

High-twist wool is probably my most recommended starting point. With it being wrinkle-resistant, breathable and quick-drying, it’s almost made for Singapore. Then linen, or linen blends, for that relaxed elegance. And the real gem is a wool-silk-linen blend. Incredibly lightweight, beautiful texture, and it works for almost any occasion. Once a client tries it, they usually want everything in it.

Is there a difference in how men in Singapore wear or use their suits compared to those in more temperate climates? For example, do they wear suits more intermittently, or dress more casually overall?

Very much so. Here, a jacket goes on when it needs to, then it comes off. That’s just the reality of the climate, and there’s nothing wrong with it. I always account for that reality.

Layering is also largely irrelevant here. Vests and heavy shirts are rarely practical. But what I find interesting is how suits get styled here. You’ll see them with polos, knits and even sneakers. There’s a fluidity to it that I find delight in. It’s less rigid, arguably more personal.

Do you think Singapore’s climate has contributed to a distinct tailoring aesthetic?

I do. I think we’re developing something you could call tropical minimalism. Clean lines, lighter colours, breathable textures. There’s less structure and more movement. Everything is designed to look sharp but feel easy.

How do you guide a client who wants to look sharp but dreads the idea of sweating through a suit in 5 minutes?

Start with fabric, always. I’ll get them to feel a high-twist wool or a linen blend first, and once they do, something clicks. All that worry about sweating through a suit, it just goes away.

Then I walk them through the construction. A soft-shoulder, half-lined jacket is a revelation for most first-timers. They come in expecting a suit to feel like armour, and when it doesn’t, they get it immediately. I also always ask where they spend most of their time. Indoors in heavy air conditioning, or out in the heat? That one question changes the entire brief.

How far would you go to show that wearing a suit in Singapore’s weather can actually work, no matter the occasion?

Well, I did run and do a full hyrox in a suit haha. It’s all to prove the point that breathability matters infinitely more than the weight or thickness of a fabric. If the construction is right, if the cloth is right, you can move, you can sweat, you can keep going. And to clarify, it’s not about being tough—it’s about the suit being well made!

I also do this with clients in the studio. Want to try to squat, walk around, move your arms? If the suit fights you, we’re not done yet. Tailoring should be functional. It should be modern. And being this involved means it has to be fun, too.

Where do you see the future of tailoring in a place like Singapore, both in style and in sustainability? How has this evolved from the past?

I think longevity is going to become central to the conversation. People are starting to think about buying less and buying better. A bespoke suit, made properly, should last you decades. That’s a very different mindset from fast fashion, but I think it’s one more people are coming around to.

In terms of style, I think hybrid tailoring is where we’re headed, so pieces that transition from formal to casual, that live in both worlds comfortably. And I do believe Singapore is carving out its own identity in the tailoring world. Distinct from European tradition, but no less sophisticated. We’re just getting started.

Lastly, what advice would you give to a man in Singapore investing in his first bespoke suit?

Start with a navy or charcoal high-twist wool. It’s the most versatile thing you can own. Wear it everywhere. Then, over time, let the wardrobe grow with you.

And design for your actual life, not the version of your life you imagine you’ll have. Think about where you’re going, what you’re doing and how you move. A suit you genuinely enjoy wearing is a suit you’ll reach for constantly. That’s the whole point, right? It should feel like yours. Otherwise, you’ll just be dressing up as someone else.